Mount Athos

Testimonies of an unseen world
02-04-2024 | Elena Lagoudi Ι EKT

The monastic state of Mount Athos, on the eastern peninsula of Halkidiki, Athos, constitutes a unique institution of uninterrupted spiritual continuity: a self-governed monastic community that has functioned without interruption from Byzantine times to the present day, in a place of prayer and ascetic discipline where landscape and silence weave the experience of the divine. Today, there are twenty monasteries: seventeen are Greek, the Holy Monastery of Hilandar is Serbian, the Holy Monastery of Zografou is Bulgarian, and the Holy Monastery of Saint Panteleimon is Russian.

The Athonite peninsula stretches for 47 kilometres in length and 5–10 kilometres in width, forming a mountainous, steep and deeply furrowed landscape. From the isthmus with the traces of Xerxes’ canal to the summit of Athos at 2,033 metres, its geomorphology combines chestnut and oak forests, precipitous coasts, small arsanades (harbours), and inaccessible rocky zones. Within this untamed terrain lie serene monasteries, sketes, cells, and hermitages—an unbroken chain of spiritual presence scattered across the landscape.

Yet Mount Athos is not only a sanctuary of spirituality; it is also a realm of mystical attraction and communion with the divine—for men, at least. Since the age of travellers, Greek and foreign artists, painters and photographers alike, have sought in the contemplative landscapes of Athos the revelation of a higher vision.

The photographic negatives, canvases, and woodcuts by the artists and architects featured in this exhibition do more than depict monasteries and the daily life of monks; they attempt to penetrate the inner sanctum of spirituality, to translate the invisible into light and colour. The artist–pilgrim becomes a witness to an unseen holiness that, through his gaze, takes visible form and becomes an artistic testimony—both for himself and for those “outside.”

Particularly noteworthy is the Spyros Papaloukas Collection of the Theocharakis Foundation, comprising over one hundred works created during the artist’s journey to Mount Athos in 1922, accompanied by his friend, the writer Stratis Doukas. Papaloukas’s landscapes of the Athonite peninsula are of great significance not only for their artistic value but also for scholars of Mount Athos, as they record architectural forms and locations, some of which no longer exist or have since been transformed.

From the Katsigras Museum, the exhibition includes twenty-one woodcuts by Giorgos Moschos (1978), depicting the exteriors of twenty-one Athonite monasteries. The Institute of Historical Research holds an extensive collection of monastic archives and Byzantine art from the Holy Mountain, while the Research Centre for Byzantine and Post-Byzantine Art of the Academy of Athens has assembled an important archive of architectural drawings, photographs, and studies of Athonite churches and monasteries.

The lens of photographers such as Leon Frangis, Joseph Hepp, and Giorgos Vafeiadakis traces a visual pilgrimage through the landscapes, daily routines, and ascetic figures of the monks, while the architectural and academic research of Pavlos Mylonas documents the structures, frescoes, and interior decoration of Athonite sanctuaries.

  

The twenty Holy Monasteries of Mount Athos, together with their coenobitic Sketes, form a unified architectural presence, shaped by their fortified layout that evokes the walled settlements of the medieval world.

Their enclosures—quadrangular or polygonal—follow the contours of the terrain and are reinforced with towers, battlements, and machicolations. At the centre of the large courtyard stands the Katholikon, structured according to the “Athonite” type established by the Great Lavra. With its dome, trikonchos plan, liti, and numerous chapels, the Katholikon constitutes the architectural and liturgical core of monastic life.

For women, however, who are not permitted to enter Mount Athos, photographs, architectural drawings, sketches, and engravings become the only window into that world. Through these traces, the viewer may approach the ávaton—the forbidden sanctuary—as a realm of faith, worship, memory, and spirituality.

This thematic exhibition seeks to convey the spiritual and aesthetic radiance of Mount Athos through testimonies that preserve its daily life, architecture, and sacred objects: photographs, paintings, engravings, ground plans and architectural drawings, manuscripts, and printed books.

Through artistic testimonies, archaeological research, and moments captured by the photographers’ lens, both women and men may now explore—digitally—a spiritual landscape and a world devoted to the unseen, and come to know the monument inscribed since 1988 on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

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Discover the   items  of this thematic exhibition